Monday, March 2, 2009
The inspirations behind Meadham Kirchhoff’s sixth womenswear collection were “filth” and the “misfortunes of desire.” Drawing upon the dark romantic aesthetic of previous seasons, designers Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff produced subtly luxurious separates for Autumn/Winter 2009: pairing couture-type treatments such as embroidery and elaborately arranged leather against what the program notes referred to as “ungracious, unloved fabrics,” like linen and canvas. Though a majority of the pieces were shown in the label’s trademark dark colors, splices of white, including an array of beautifully frayed and deconstructed white shirts (a nod to the deconstructed denim and “rotting” lace pieces of previous seasons) enhanced the gothic vibe of the collection. Shoes by Manolo Blahnik, a first time collaboration for the designers, complemented the pieces, with silver and gold embellished booties blending so seamlessly with some embroidered trouser pieces that at times, it was difficult to tell where the clothing stopped and the accessories began.
The most exciting pieces in this show were the bomber jackets which from the front looked voluminous yet somehow sleek, but from the back appeared to be puffed whirls of leather wound upon itself. Mozart’s Requiem played throughout the latter half of the show, a fitting complement for the melancholy yet upliftingly beautiful procession of those leather pieces in profile during the finale: the models resembled fallen angels with clipped wings, literally and figuratively carrying “misfortunes of desire” on their backs.